Saturday, March 19, 2011

Carnival in Venice 2011 Photos

I've just returned from an amazing trip to Carnival in Venice, Italy. It was part adventure with good friends, part pilgrimage (Venice has been a major center of masquerade activity for close to 1,000 years, and Carnival is the mother of all costume parties), part lifelong-dream-fulfillment, and part 10-year wedding anniversary celebration for myself and my husband John. Traveling with close friends who are also costumers, designers and artists made the experience even more special. We started working on our costumes last fall, and during the last few months before our departure for Italy in late February, making outfits was pretty much ALL we did beyond the bare minimum of eating, sleeping, and work. We had a magical, amazing, fantastical time in Venice, and started planning our trip back for Carnival 2012 before we even returned to San Francisco. Venice is truly beautiful and fascinating, and we met so many amazing new friends - it was like summer camp for adult costumers. I can't wait to go back!

Here are a few pictures from our trip. There were too many great shots taken to include them all (thanks to the fine photography of Daniel and Steph). Unless otherwise noted, costume pieces were made by the person wearing them in the photo (or someone else in our group), or pulled from one of our closets (John's heavily-braided jackets were borrowed from another friend). With very few exceptions, all hats pictured were made by House of Nines Design (i.e. me), and all corsets and corset-jackets were made by the geniuses at Dark Garden Corsetry. We had great luck finding fabrics and materials at Burnley and Trowbridge Co., Renaissance Fabrics, Britex Fabrics, and Lacis.

Our household mascot of late has been 18th century painter Joseph Ducreux. Here John strikes a pose that says "Disregard photographers, acquire prosecco."


John got a lot of mileage out of his huge new Kevenhuller tricorn. Over the 10 days of Carnival, I piled more and more stuff and feathers all over my hats. I wanted them to be bigger and crazier everyday.


John in front of Harry's Bar. He normally wouldn't wear such enormous feathers on a bowler, but we figured: why not? It's carnival. Plus, the extra height made him easy to spot as we moved through dense crowds in the streets.


We spent part of almost every afternoon at Florian, the famous cafe that's been sitting pretty on San Marco square since 1720. It has incredible ambiance and history, with mural-painted walls and gorgeous furniture, not to mention being the main hang-out of serious carnival costumers. Here's Daniel lounging amongst the art.


A few days later, I re-shaped the same hat from the last photo into a bicorn, and was very pleased with the foxy results.


When planning what to make for and bring on the trip, as a group we agreed on a set of themes and a basic color palette (red, black, white, yellow and gray) for most of our outfits, so our wardrobes would coordinate but not be identical. That way, we wouldn't be too matchy-matchy, but we could share accessories and use pieces in different combinations to make new outfits. Here's Autumn, rockin' our color palette in a gorgeous 18th century gown at the Hotel Danieli on the Grand Canal.


And Steph in an incredible mantua and fontange. Steph, Autumn and Daniel brought Baroque-style (late 17th century) outfits, but I was surprised that so few other people at carnival tried that period. Maybe we should do more with it next year. (Costume: Past Pleasures Ltd.)


Since it was the first trip to Venice for most of us, we had to take a gondola ride. I was disappointed to find that nobody seemed to be using gondolas for actual transportation very much, it was all just tourists being taken in a big circle like a theme park ride. But it was still pretty great seeing the city from a very different angle. Autumn looked like a beautiful cupcake that day in her pink and white shepherdess dress.


The gondolas are works of art, and pretty romantic despite all the corny tourists. I half-joked about how many lottery tickets I'd buy after we got home, to be able to afford our own private gondolier to transport us around the city next year in style.


Another fun afternoon at Florian. This was my first attempt at a Marchesa Casati outfit (my hero!). As she famously said, 'I want to be a living work of art.' I'll be doing more to channel her next year.


Why was (almost) all food so delicious in Italy? Especially anything dairy or baked. It was uncanny.


With all the Victorian-themed events we attend in San Francisco (Edwardian Ball, Dickens Fair, etc.), a Victorianesque team costume was easy to pull together.


Here are a few pieces of the circus themed team costume we brought, hopefully we'll develop it more for next year.


Another fun thing to do in the afternoons at carnival is to attend one of the many lavish 'chocolates' hosted at fancy hotels around Venice. They have all-you-can-drink hot chocolate (the consistency of thick pudding, and so delicious) with special cookies and pastries. This one was especially fun, the hostess had set up 18th century card games for everyone to play. Our friend Erin met us there in full Gypsy Warrior Princess regalia.


One of the highlights of the trip was a Japanese Manga / 18th century themed party. I love a mash-up, and this one was especially fun to play around with. This was party number two (of three) of the evening, with complete costume changes in between.




Afterward, I sat on our private roof deck and watched the sun come up. There were a lot of late nights!


Another fantastic party we went to had a Turkish theme. We took photos on the roof before going to the party, as the host had requested 'no photography' at the event. Here's Steph, looking picture-perfect as always. She re-purposed the yellow pantaloons from a Victorian-era 'Bloomers' outfit she made for Dickens Fair last year, and built the rest of the outfit around them in gorgeous vintage fabrics.


I was surprised at how comfortable the Turkish pantaloons were to wear. On another day, I changed out the accessories, threw on a marching band jacket, and went out as a Zouve, which was super exciting because I hadn't even realized I had that costume with me till I was putting it all on. Giant pants may be my new go-to piece for next year.


When we initially found out about the theme of this party, we wanted to make outfits similar to a Turkish/French mash-up style that was popular with avant-garde ladies in the late 18th century. It didn't work out for the rest of us, but Autumn carried it off beautifully. Maybe next year we'll have another crack at it.


It's hard to believe, but the guys each wrapped their own turbans in about 10 minutes with little-to-no practice, and only a little help from YouTube. They look *fantastic*.



Needless to say, we're all tired, broke, and happy. And dreaming every minute about more carnival fun in 2012.

Friday, January 28, 2011

Circus Costume Etc.

My circus costume is now almost completed. As usual, before I started, I said 'no problem! this won't take long'. But, sewing this crazy petticoat (red and white gingham taffeta with matching and red silk dupioni ruffles) took a week. So. Many. Ruffles.





The circle skirt to go over it also took a week. I made it in red silk satin with gobs of sequin trim and giant antique red glass sequins. It took almost the whole week just to sew on the trim.

Mid-way though on the skirt, before the rhinestones came on board:


Finished:


I'll be wearing these with this red satin corset. It's currently back at the shop (i.e. Dark Garden) for a tune-up: they're kindly adding shoulder straps for me, and making a matching stomacher that I'll bling out to match the trim on the skirt.



I need a feather headdress of some kind to go with it, but haven't had a minute to think much about that yet.

Thankfully, since finishing those pieces other things are moving along more quickly now. I've finished one linen 18th-century style shirt (originally intended for John, but it turned out too small, so now it's mine) and have cut out the pieces for three more. Also, I have three skirts and some giant red and white striped harem pants cut and ready to sew this weekend. Production line makes things go faster. Only 47 outfits and hats to go!

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Venice Costume Update

The last few weeks have been crazy! I thought I would get a bit of a break after the new year to do my taxes, etc., but no dice. If anything January was even busier than December, mostly due to the ramp-up to the Edwardian Ball (making hats for other people, and getting my own self ready). Here is a photo of my husband John from the ball. The photos are slowly rolling in as everybody recovers from the weekend, so I'll post more soon.

John in his white tie tux best, on Saturday.


We've been spending more and more time on our costumes for Venice Carnavale over the last few months, but now that the Ball is over, it's going to be all Venice, all the time until we leave in late February. I'm trying not to freak out about the fact that there is only one month left. I still have to find time to finish my bookkeeping and taxes somehow, and to finish up some orders I have in process, but I'm breathing, eating, sleeping, dreaming, and living prep for Venice otherwise.

The breakdown of costumes we are trying to get through include:

--Venice dominos (the classic carnival look: a black cape and hat with a mask)
--1790s outfits (a striped jacket and skirt, and a yellow 2-piece dress for me, and a red cut-away tailcoat for John with a black shirt, waistcoat, and breeches)
--Some kind of Arabian Nights-themed get-ups
-- An 18th century outfit for me in plaid
-- Circus outfits
-- of course, hats for each outfit
-- Undergarments (shirts, shifts, etc.)

Written out that way, it doesn't seem so bad, but I feel like I'm swimming in a sea of project. We have a got more ideas, but these are the ones John & I are focusing on trying to get through right now.

We'll also be taking a lot of things we already have in our closets, heavy on the Dark Garden corsetry of course.

I haven't been taking many photos of costume prep along the way, because that would just slow me down, but will be posting a few as I finish things. Please excuse the not fantastic quality of some of the photos that follow. We'll have time for really great photos later, these are just documentary.

Here are some inspiration pictures for the Domino outfits. These were standard street wear on the streets of Venice during carnavale (which last 6 months out of the year, for a few hundred years until Napoleon conquered the city in 1797).



Our Venice Domino capes are done, done, done. I made them in a beautiful black wool broadcloth (surprisingly warm and dense for being so thin) from Burnley and Trowbridge, edged in black satin bias tape. Used a pattern (slightly modified) from Reconstructing History. We've decided to buy masks, if we want them, there, I hear Venice is crawling with mask shops and we can undoubtedly find nicer ones there than here. John is really close to being done with his waistcoat and breeches (which he'll wear in several different outfits), and his shirt will be starting shortly. I have plenty of black dresses to wear for this outfit, but am hoping to making a black kind of a riding outfit with jodhpurs to wear with the cape if there's time (for rainy days).




Everything else is either in process or will be started shortly. More updates to follow.

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Booked up till 3/15

I'm officially not taking any new custom orders until mid-March. Fully booked until then.

Thursday, January 13, 2011

New Hat Style: Yvette

Inspired by the quirky, asymmetrical 'doll' hats popular just before and during World War II, this slightly mini top hat shape is shorter on one side and taller on the other, with the brim canted at the opposite angle, and the crown tilts forward like a little Alice in Wonderland teacake about to topple over.


I made this sample in a gorgeous charcoal gray fur felt with black and gray ribbon trim.


Dressed up with peacock sword feathers, dyed to match the felt and curled into spirals.


I've been collecting vintage hats for almost 25 years and my all-time favorite was made by a Parisian Milliner named Yvette Delort: a little late-1930s 'doll' top hat that is asymmetrical, has a ruched silk lining and a silk plush exterior (rare for the period), and is entirely hand-sewn. This hat has seen better days, is a bit squashed and rubbed around the edges, but it's my Velveteen Rabbit of hats: a little pal, my millinery mascot, bursting with personality. If my house was burning down, it's one of maybe 10 things I would try to grab on my way out the door. The more I learn about hat making and the more I look at this hat, the details and fine workmanship that went into it, the more I'm convinced that the person who designed it was a genius.

Here's a photo of the lovely young Mlle. Delort looking gorgeous wearing one of her own creations, circa 1931.


Yvette Delort opened her shop in Paris in 1930, and there are a handful of references to her in the fashion magazine L'officiel de le Mode from the 1930s. I suspect that she probably was working in someone else's millinery shop before that, given the Victorian or Edwardian characteristics of the hat (the way the lining is sewn together, the materials chosen, etc.), she obviously learned the trade and traditional techniques from other milliners of long standing. She was clearly still working through the 1930s-- my hat's shape is spot-on for the particular style of 'doll hats' that were popular right before the war-- but as yet, I have found no trace of Yvette Delort after the late 1930s. Perhaps she was one of the many French fashion workers who closed up shop at the start of the German occupation in 1940, and like a large number of them, wasn't able to recover enough financially to resume her business after the war was over.

So, I wanted to create a hat inspired by my little vintage favorite and the lady who made it, and turned to my custom hat block maker, Owen Morse Brown at Guy Morse Brown Hat Blocks, to design a set of blocks in the same vein. As usual, GMB came through for me with a fantastic work of art. Owen is as talented as all get-out. The 'Yvette' is not an exact copy of the vintage Delort hat, but an homage to it. I'm looking forward to experimenting with the 'Yvette' blocks to make hats in lots of colors and different types of felt (I'm planning one for myself in pea-green for daywear). While it is still a mini hat, it's a bit larger (in terms of head size) that the 'Belle Epoch' mini top hat that's been my best seller, and only half as tall. It should work better as a cross-over day-to-night hat than some of my other, more costume-y styles.

More photos coming soon, it looks even more striking in shiny long-napped 'beaver' felt!

ADS Hats has the charcoal gray one pictured in stock, and Dark Garden has one in black long-napped fur felt with black trim for sale right now.

Friday, January 7, 2011

Profile in Mission Local

Mission Local just posted a great profile of my friend Elina Tachkova, milliner and proprietress of Alternative Design Studio / ADS Hats. I retail at ADS-- House of Nines Design is mentioned in the article, and there are several photos of my hats in the slideshow.

Thanks, Elina!

Monday, January 3, 2011

There is nobody cooler than Grace Jones

Been thinking a lot about Grace Jones lately. Unlike so many of the empty 'celebrities' of today, who are famous for being famous, which is nothing other than their eagerness to expose themselves in public, Grace Jones is famous for being herself. And herself is more than enough to merit it. She is a musician, an actress, a model, and most of all, some kind of force of nature. She has mystery and is totally fierce. She's uncanny, and you don't really want to meet her in a dark alley. Seeing photos of her makes me feel a little bit of fear for my personal safety.












She seems completely fearless. It always impresses me that regardless of how much she is photographed with her clothes off, she never looks naked. She looks like she has just unencumbered herself from the inconvenience of clothing so that she can even more easily kick your ass.





As much as I think it's great that Lady Gaga plays dress-up, she'll never be this stone-cold amazing. Seeing photos of Lady Gaga, it's clear that she has a crack team of stylists on call 24/7 to do these things to her. The clothes are wearing her. She's transformed, but, like with artist Cindy Sherman, I'm always aware that there is a normal girl underneath. Speaking as a normal girl who also likes to dress up, that is great, and a feat in itself. On the other hand, Grace Jones is usually wearing some kind of crazy getup, but it's her force of personality that blasts you in the face. The outfit is just what she happened to be wearing when she stepped off her space ship to conquer the planet.